Pizza is like sex: even when it's bad, it's still pretty good." This is how I opened a piece I wrote for the WIRE on South Beach 20 years ago. Interestingly, every single pizza place I rated in that review no longer exists - saying something about the transient nature of South Florida and the never ending quest for a great pizza pie. I am seeking the pie of my youth. An Italian bar-restaurant owned by former prize-fighter Phil Baker served a medium crust pizza with oven charring, that's my quest to find. I can still remember the distinctive smell of this incredible pizza. Phil Baker's was torn down in the early 70's to make way for an expansion of Route 7. Ruth Reichl, the noted food critic and editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, co-producer of PBS's Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie, and culinary editor for the Modern Library, fondly remembered Phil Baker's pizza in a recent book. The pilgrimage of great pizza must take one to Wooster Street in New Haven, Connecticut where Sally's and Pepe's stand toe to toe - two bastions of the greatest relatively thin crust pizza. Sally's white clam pie is one of the gastronomical wonders of the world. An adjacent shack called 'The Spot' turns out fine pies if the line at Sally's and Pepe's goes out the door and around the block as they sometimes do. Sometimes, however, world class pizza can be right under your nose. A new boite in Miami Beach, Fratelli la Bufala, turns out an amazingly light and delicate pie. The tomatoes sauce has a pungent tang and the puddles of buffalo mozzarella are of the highest grade. Skip the pastas and other mundane dishes; this is pizza worthy of the Romans.