There is not a more versatile tie in the world than a dark navy knit tie. The Italians call it blu scuro, which is basically the color of the midnight sky. This should not be confused with the classic black silk square-bottomed knit tie.
First, it’s timeless, and goes with anything. If you’re only gonna have one tie in your closet, this is the tie. Because it’s solid, it can appear elegant and dressed up when paired with a dark suit, but on the flip side, you can wear it with a pair of jeans and an Oxford shirt.
On the other hand, paired with a suit it can feel more Connery-era Bond. The knit is the chameleon of ties… it sort of takes on the personality of the rest of your outfit. And I mean, what other piece of clothing can look just as appropriate at a wedding — or a funeral — as it does at a concert?
It’s a low barrier to entry for a high-quality tie – the best are made outside Milan in Como, by some of the finest silk purveyors in the world. I like the size a bit over 2 inches wide.
The solid navy knit tie looks great with a jacket that’s got some pattern to it, like a checked or plaid hopsack, but will bridge the gap with more tweed or navy blazers. Shirting-wise, it pairs easily with a solid shirt for a clean look, but you could also pair it with a quiet patterned dress shirt (a graph check or bengal stripe), or something casual like a sport shirt in gingham or multi-stripe. It looks best, however, with the white Oxford cloth button-down shirt that was once popularized by Brooks Brothers, but where the best version can now be found at J Press.
I outlined here why this is the shirt every gentleman should have.
There is one other advantage. If you are dashing through an airport and your suitcase breaks open, you can even tie it close with one of these ties.